Καλώς ήρθατε (kalos irthate)- Welcome!
Next on our culinary journey is to my hometown Kerkyra, more typically known as Corfu. Part of the Ionian Islands, Corfu is every holidayers and food enthusiasts' dream. It hasn't, however, always enjoyed the peace and tranquility its picturesque coastlines and sleepy fishing villages would have us believe. Corfu has had a turbulent but interesting history. It resisted several Turkish sieges during the Ottoman Empire before falling under British rule in the aftermath of the Napoleonic Wars. It was once again unified with its motherland, Greece, in 1864.
Depicted below is 'Liston' Esplanade. Liston was built in 1807 by Mathieu de Lesseps, a French imperial commissioner, and is typical of Napoleonic architecture. It is believed to inspired by the Rue de Rivoli, Paris.
Liston. [Internet]. 2014. Loutses House.com website. Available from:http://www.loutseshouse.com/local-things-to-do/ [Accessed 28 Jul 2014]. |
In the summer months, Greeks and tourists alike flock to Liston to enjoy an iced cold 'frappe' (iced coffee) whilst taking in the town's night life. This proves to be the busiest part of Corfu Town, with little chance of finding a quiet spot amongst the jovial conversations and cicada songs.
Whilst there remain an abundance of beauteous mementos documenting Corfu's French and later British rule (most notably in the adoption of the sport of cricket), it is the influence of its Venetian rule from medieval times into the late 17th century, that is most felt in modern times.
Our relationship with Italy has proliferated in a shared culture of things, not least of our love of food. Giacomo Casanova (yes, THE Casanova), when not philandering, was a officer of the Venetian Army and resided for some in Corfu.
Giovanni Giacomo Casanova. [Internet]. 2014. The Biography.com website. Available from:http://www.biography.com/people/giovanni-giacomo-casanova-38011 [Accessed 28 Jul 2014]. |
I digress.
For it is today I turn to our neighbour for my next culinary offering: Pastitsio. My Italian friend informs me that this translates to 'mess'; its origins being a pie of sorts. So is this an Italian or Greek dish you may ask? Well it's both, and is particularly popular in Corfu who have lovingly embraced their brethren's love of pasta into their regional cuisine. It represents a bridging of two cultures. It's the very best of Italian technique with Greek flavours- what contemporary gastronomers may call 'fusion'. Whatever it's origins, and without resorting to the usual Greco-Roman debate on Magnificence; it's delicious. So step aside lasagne-you have some stiff competition.
This photo depicts a Greek 'Yia-Yia' (Grandma) size portion of around 20 slices. For those of you with normal sized families with normal appetites, a lasagne dish will suffice!
Now that I have set your tastes buds satisfactorily alight, I shall get down to business. You will need:
125 ml of olive oil
1kg minced lean beef or veal (or lamb if you prefer)
1 large white onion
3 cloves of fresh garlic
2 cans chopped tomatoes
1 tablespoons of Tomato purée
125ml Red wine (good quality- no scrimping)
Beef stock cube
1 teaspoon of cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon of all spice
2 bay/ laurel leaves
(If making the dish with lamb, rosemary is a great addition)
Large oven proof lasagne dish
2 eggs, separated and whisked.
Bucatini pasta (or penne if you are unable to source bucatini)
1 litre Full fat milk (semi-skimmed if you must)
4 tablespoons of butter
4 tablespoons of flour
2 egg yolks
Kefalotyri or Parmesan cheese (to taste)
A few handfuls of breadcrumbs
Nutmeg
Remember when I said Greek cuisine requires some patience? Well this recipe requires you to make both a bolognese and a béchamel sauce BUT you will not be disappointed. Bear with me....
First make the bolognese...
Gently heat the olive oil. Sauté the onions on a low heat for 10 minutes to extract their sweetness.
Finely chop/mash the garlic with your choice of kitchen gadget and add to the onions. Fry until you can smell the garlic- then add the meat.
Increase the heat and sear the mince until brown. Add the stock cube and stir until mixed.
Add the wine. Reduce the heat slightly and leave uncovered for a few minutes until the alcohol burns off.
Add the chopped tomatoes, tomatoes purée, cinnamon, bay leaves and salt and pepper to taste. Leave to simmer for a further 30 minutes minimum.
Preheat the oven to 180 degrees celcius.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil.
Put the pasta on to par-boil. This should be around 2/3s of the time recommended on the packet. This is very important since the pasta will continue to cook in the oven and we don't want to end up with pasta mush!
Now for the béchamel sauce...
Place the milk on the heat and bring to just before boiling point. Remove from heat.
Put the butter in a saucepan; allow to melt. Add the flour and whisk vigorously to activate the gluten in the flour and form a roux. Continue until the mixture is smooth and shiny.
Add the milk slowly to the roux, constantly whisking to avoid lumps. Add the eggs yolks and a couple do handfuls of grated cheese. Finally, add a quarter of a nutmeg (half a teaspoon) or to taste and a pinch of pepper.
Remove the pasta from the water. Drain and add a couple of large spoonfuls of the béchamel sauce and whisked eggs whites and toss.
Spread half the pasta in your ovenproof dish (don't worry if it's not in uniform lines!). Carefully spread the bolognese mixture on top. Spread the remaining pasta on top. Finally, pour the béchamel sauce over the layers.
Sprinkle with more cheese and breadcrumbs.
Bake in a preheated oven for half an hour until nicely golden on the top.
Leave to cool and set for 30 minutes before cutting. This, again, is very important- if you don't leave the Pastitsio to set it will be runny and sloppy. In fact, this dish tastes even better the next day once allowed to set fully.
Καλή όρεξη! Buon appetito!